A dripping tap is easy to put off because the sink carries the water away. It can still waste thousands of litres over time, leave limescale marks and become harder to shut off. Water around the tap base or beneath the sink is more urgent because it can damage the worktop, cupboard and floor.
First, find where the water is appearing
Dry the tap, sink and pipework with a clean cloth, then watch carefully without removing any parts. The position of fresh water gives a useful clue:
- From the spout: an internal washer, valve or cartridge may no longer be sealing.
- Around the handle: a seal or O-ring may be worn, or an internal part may be loose.
- Around the tap base: the body seal, fixing or connection may need attention.
- Inside the cupboard: check the flexible hoses, rigid connections, isolation valves and waste pipe without disturbing them.
A few drops immediately after using some taps can simply be water draining from the spout. A drip that continues after the control has been fully turned off is different and should be investigated.
Common reasons a tap keeps dripping
Traditional compression taps commonly use a rubber washer that presses against a valve seat. The washer can become worn, hardened or damaged. Many quarter-turn and single-lever taps use ceramic cartridges instead; debris, limescale or wear can stop the internal surfaces sealing properly.
Water escaping around a moving handle may involve an O-ring or another seal. In hard-water areas, limescale can also affect the movement and sealing surfaces. The correct repair depends on the tap design and the exact replacement part—two cartridges that look similar may not be interchangeable.
Safe checks before arranging a repair
- Dry the whole area and confirm whether the water comes from the spout, handle, base or pipework below.
- Check whether the hot side, cold side or both controls are affected.
- Take clear photographs of the complete tap and any maker’s mark or model label.
- Look for accessible isolation valves beneath the sink, but do not force a stiff or corroded valve.
- If water is reaching a cupboard or floor, place a container underneath where safe and move stored items away.
Never dismantle a tap until its water supply has been isolated and you have confirmed that the flow has stopped. If there is no working local isolation valve, the internal stopcock may need to be used. Do not begin if you are unsure which valve controls the supply or whether it will reopen safely.
Repair or replace?
A sound tap with an available washer, seal or cartridge can often be repaired. Replacement may be more sensible when the body is cracked or badly corroded, several parts are failing, the correct cartridge is unavailable or the tap has become loose and damaged the surrounding surface.
Before buying a replacement, check the number of tap holes, connection sizes, available space beneath the sink and whether the water pressure suits the chosen tap. A tap that physically fits the basin is not automatically compatible with every plumbing system.
When should you call a plumber promptly?
- Water is leaking below the sink, into a cupboard or through a worktop.
- The tap or isolation valve is loose, seized, corroded or difficult to operate.
- The drip becomes a continuous trickle or the tap will not shut off.
- Water is near a socket, appliance or electrical connection.
- A landlord or tenant cannot identify a safe way to isolate the supply.
A useful landlord check
At inspections and changes of tenancy, operate each tap normally, look beneath sinks for staining or swollen panels and check that accessible isolation valves are labelled. Tenants should report a recurring drip rather than repeatedly forcing the handle closed. Early repair helps avoid water waste and damage to the unit below.
Need a tap repaired or replaced?
Send a photo of the full tap, the leak point and the pipework underneath if it is safely accessible. Call Ricky on 07939 013120 or email Essexemergencyplumbing@gmail.com with your location.